When the Portuguese arrived at the Gold Coast in 1471 they discovered a thriving gold trade among Natives, Arabs and Berber Traders. It was a well established business that they could join. A trading post was established, and by 1482 the Portuguese started building a fortified castle. Local chief Kwamin Ansah was not convinced of the Portuguese needing a permanent settlement, but reluctantly agreed anyway. Elmina Castle was the first european building in sub-saharan Africa. Building supplies like heavy foundation stones and roof tiles were shipped from Portugal. Supposedly Christopher Columbus was among the sailors who was aboard one of the many caravels transporting the supplies.

Trade with gold and ivory was going well the first two hundred years. In time a number of forts and castles were built along the beaches and villages of the Gold Coast. Danish, Swedish, Dutch and Brandenburg-Prussian trading posts wanted their slice of the cake. There were positive, but also negative side-effects. Traditional trade routes along the coast and into the interior were disrupted. Around the castle of Elmina a proper city under quasi portuguese rule was established, attracting all sorts of traders from near and far, not always with the best of intentions in mind. By the 17^th century the slave trade became more lucrative. Slaves were mostly captured in the interior by slave-hunters of coastal tribes and the powerful Ashanti, then sold to the Portuguese in exchange for goods like textiles or horses. The castle served as a depot for the slaves, where they were held captive under dehumanizing conditions, until they were forced through the narrow „Door of no return“ onto the ships that brought them to the portuguese colonies, mainly Brazil.

Eventually the Dutch took over Elmina Castle, continuing the profitable slave trade for the next 177 years. By the time the British established themselves along the gold coast the slave trade had been abolished by the Anglo-Dutch Treaty of 1814, some 51 years earlier than the Emancipation Declaration in the U.S.

Today the castle is a tourist magnet and a Memorial to the countless victims of the brutish slave trade. It was also used as a set for the movie „Cobra Verde“ directed by Werner Herzog, starring Klaus Kinski. The movie itself is a fascinating account of Bruce Chatwins „The Viceroy Of Ouidah“, a story dealing amongst others with the capturing and trading of slaves.

Elmina Castle from a distance

The courtyard. The upper stories on the building to the left were the Governor´s residence.

The door to the right was the entrance to the slave storage, which had a ventilation window.

To the left is the single room dungeon without ventilation, hence the skull above the door.

It was considered a death cell.

Up to 400 people were cramped into a single room

View from the Governor´s quarters.

More pics of Elmina Castle: http://ontheroad.zenfolio.com/elminacastle?customize=2